shiplap Archives - Living with Lady https://livingwithlady.com/tag/shiplap Thu, 09 Feb 2017 10:30:55 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.5.3 https://i0.wp.com/livingwithlady.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/cropped-siteicon.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 shiplap Archives - Living with Lady https://livingwithlady.com/tag/shiplap 32 32 155455105 DIY Shiplap Fireplace Tutorial https://livingwithlady.com/2017/02/diy-shiplap-fireplace-tutorial.html https://livingwithlady.com/2017/02/diy-shiplap-fireplace-tutorial.html#comments Thu, 09 Feb 2017 10:30:55 +0000 http://ladyslittleloves.com/?p=14085 Once you shiplap something, you’ll start looking around your house wondering what you can shiplap next. After we finished ship-lapping our staircase, (Tutorial HERE) I quickly decided the fireplace had to be next. I just loved the look so much and wanted more! And, since we had some boards left over from our staircase, it […]

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Once you shiplap something, you’ll start looking around your house wondering what you can shiplap next. After we finished ship-lapping our staircase, (Tutorial HERE) I quickly decided the fireplace had to be next. I just loved the look so much and wanted more!

And, since we had some boards left over from our staircase, it was a no-brainer that we would use them for the fireplace, too.

Below is a step-by-step guide on how we did this. I hope you find it helpful!

Materials:

Underlayment (For the fireplace we probably only used one or two 4×8 sheets at approximately $4/sheet)

Trim (We used 3″x.5″ inch boards)

Sandpaper or Random Orbital Sander (sander is much faster- we used 100 grit paper)

Paint in color of choice (We used Sherwin Williams’ “Snowbound” to match our fireplace (Fireplace painting tutorial HERE)

Roller brush and foam insert

Painting tray

Miter saw or skill saw (we recommend miter saw)

Router (optional)

tape measure

Stud finder

Pin nailer gun and 1.5″ pin nails

Nickels

Spackle/ joint compound and putty knife  (optional if you need/want to fill in the lines/nail holes)

Trim (you may need a skinny piece of trim to fill in any gaps toward the bottom of your ship-lapped mantle (you will see what I mean below. We used 1″ trim.)

Some before photos…

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In the daylight…

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Directions:

First, go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy as many sheets of 4′ x 8′ underlayment as you need to fill your space. We needed between 1-2.  Then, have the employees rip the boards (cut them) for you for free! We had the boards cut at 8 inches wide and this was a huge time-saver for us.

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Once home, you will want to sand the raw edges of the boards using a random orbital sander. You can still sand them down without one of these, but you will save a ton of time and energy if you do have one.

Next, we painted all of the boards and trim in Sherwin Williams’ “Snowbound” using roller brushes and we then let them dry.

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Next, my husband used a miter saw to cut the boards to our desired lengths.

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Then, my husband used a router to create a lip in the trim so that the boards tucked behind it leaving a perfect edge.

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We tried to show why we did that below. Without the little lip, some of the boards didn’t align evenly when placed straight against the trim, which really wasn’t a big deal, but we just preferred the look of the perfectly straight edge.  Also, you can see here why we decided to attach vertical boards to the wall (seen below) before attaching our shiplap. The extra thickness of the vertical boards allowed the shiplap to sit against our trim perfectly, and without it, there was a little gap.

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Then, we took our stud finder to locate the studs and marked where they were so we knew where to attach the boards. These boards are the same ones we used for the shiplap, we just turned some of them over so we remembered what boards were going straight against the wall and what boards we were being used as the horizontal shiplap.

 Here we have nailed the two outer pieces of trim with a nail gun and have started nailing the vertical boards, aligning with the studs, to the wall.

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Next, we added the top piece of trim and then started nailing the shiplap to the vertical boards

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And to space the boards evenly, we used nickels, which kept the spacing consistent.

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We suggest starting from the top and working your way down so that whatever spacing you are left with toward the bottom can be covered up easier. Once we got to the bottom, this is the little space we were left with.

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And luckily, some leftover 1″ trim we had from ship-lapping our stairs covered this perfectly. So we then nailed that in.

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And that is it! DONE!  Optional- if you want to cover any of the nail holes or lines where the edges of the trim meet, then you can easily fill those lines and holes with spackle, let it dry, sand down and then touch-up with paint. I actually like the nail holes and I have yet to cover my trim lines, and I may never do it!

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Once finished, I didn’t want that big metal decor piece up on our mantle anymore covering up that beautiful shiplap, so it took a little hunting around to find the right piece. I ended up finding this metal arch, which allows the shiplap to show through yet still has good height.

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I just LOVE how this turned out. It has transformed our fireplace and has made everything appear as it if were one big piece.

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I found my arch at Hobby Lobby in the clearance section. And after searching around, I found THIS one, which is similar and would look nicely against the white shiplap.

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Side note- I also have had my eye on some olive trees for quite some time, but those babies are EXPENSIVE! So, I made my own! Tutorial coming soon!

And to end, some before and afters 🙂

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What do you think? Is this something you would consider doing to your own fireplace?

Thanks for stopping by!

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DIY Shiplap Tutorial (With Time-Saving Tips and Tricks!) https://livingwithlady.com/2017/01/diy-shiplap-tutorial-with-time-saving-tips-and-tricks.html https://livingwithlady.com/2017/01/diy-shiplap-tutorial-with-time-saving-tips-and-tricks.html#comments Wed, 18 Jan 2017 10:30:43 +0000 http://ladyslittleloves.com/?p=13876   Something I have been wanting to do for a while now thanks to my secret BFF, Joanna Gaines, is to add shiplap to our home. I didn’t really know where to put it, though, until one day I was sitting on the couch and noticed how much empty drywall we have due to our […]

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Something I have been wanting to do for a while now thanks to my secret BFF, Joanna Gaines, is to add shiplap to our home. I didn’t really know where to put it, though, until one day I was sitting on the couch and noticed how much empty drywall we have due to our tall ceilings. It just kind-of made things look a little “blah” since I can’t really decorate that high up.

That’s when I realized shiplap would do the trick. Not only do I love how it brightens a room, but it gives so much texture and personality. So, knowing how much I wanted to do this, my husband made it happen for my birthday. Below is a tutorial for just how we made it happen for CHEAP, and the tips and tricks we suggest to save you time and money!

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Materials:

Underlayment (We bought eight 4×8 sheets at approximately $4/board and had leftover)

Trim (1″ 90 degree)

Sandpaper or Random Orbital Sander (sander is much faster- we used 100 grit paper)

Paint in color of choice (We bought a gallon of Behr “Dove White” and had some leftover)

Roller brush and foam insert

Painting tray

Miter saw or skill saw (we recommend miter saw)

Square and tape measure – to take accurate measurements if you have any angles like we did

Stud finder

Lazer level (optional)

Pin nailer gun and 1.5″ pin nails

Nickels

Jigsaw – optional (If going around outlets or light fixtures)

Spackle/ joint compound and putty knife  (optional if you need/want to fill in the lines/nail holes)

 

Some before photos…

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TIP: We originally bought these 8′ MDF boards but quickly realized this was not the way to go. They were too thick, plus quite a bit more than using underlayment. We had read mixed reviews about underlayment, but we ultimately decided to give it a try. We really could not beat the price.

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Directions: 

So, back to Home Depot we went, and we bought eight of these underlayment boards and the best part is that the nice people at Home Depot ripped the boards (cut them) at our desired widths (8 inches) for FREE! This was a huge time-saver and was so nice to have done for us.

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Shopping buddies.

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Once home, we sanded the raw edges of the boards using a random orbital sander. You can still sand them down without one of these, but you will save a ton of time and energy if you do have one.

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Trick! We found we could save a lot of time during the painting phase by stacking all of the boards up and then painting all of the sides at once.

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Then, I stood on the inside of the two tables and my husband on the other and we busted the tops out in no time.

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Because we weren’t dealing with straight lines, using a square along with a tape measure helped us to calculate the exact angle we needed to cut our boards.

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Then, we took our stud finder to locate the studs and used a laser level to help draw straight lines all the way up so when attaching the boards we knew exactly where to nail them into.

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My husband then used a miter saw to cut the boards, and we then attached them using the nail gun on the lines we previously drew. image1-copy

To evenly space the boards, we used nickels! This made sure the boards stayed consistent throughout.

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Each board got two nails, aligning with each of the previously drawn lines.

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Going around the outlet and light fixtures required a few more steps. Definitely measure twice, and cut once! And my husband used a jigsaw to do this.

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Once all of the boards were on, we attached the trim piece, again using the nail gun.

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And that gave it a much cleaner look!

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While I wasn’t looking, my husband drew this on the wall before attaching a couple of boards to cover it up. Since this project was a birthday gift, we will always remember it by knowing this is hidden beneath. Totally swooning! He didn’t show me until we were done. And how cool for someone to potentially find some day?

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And this portion, complete!

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Now on to the top portion. Crazy how different angles and lighting can make the boards look so different. Anyway, we attached the top boards just like the bottom.

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TIP: And here is where it might save you some work! We didn’t really have a plan as to how the boards would go up in terms of placement on the top portion. Since the boards weren’t long enough to go all the way across as they were on the bottom portion, they had to be pieced together. So, that is what we did.

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And it was about at this point that we decided we didn’t like it! Because we liked the way the bottom portion of the ship-lapped wall looked, with all of the boards reaching all the way across without being pieced together, we thought it looked strange for the top half of the wall to be pieced together once the boards no longer reached all the way across. You can see the various seams if you look closely in this photo.

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So, we took all of the boards from this point up, off, and re-did them so that there was only one solid seam at the top of the staircase. Save yourself the work! Plan ahead 🙂

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Because the wall is so high, my husband built this platform out of scrap wood we had in our garage so that his ladder would be able to safely reach the top of the wall.

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And in this picture, you can see where our new seam is.

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Now, I was NOT getting on that ladder, so this was ALL my husband, but he did weave the cord around the ladder, giving himself an anchor, which made me breathe a little easier when he was up there.

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And finally, putting the trim on the edge with the nail gun.

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Once all of the boards were up, we then used some spackle to fill in the seams. Once dry, we sanded it down, and then painted over the line.

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TIP! Make sure you do the spackling well! I initially just slapped it up there, sanded it down to what I thought was “good enough” and then painted over it. It looked bad! And ultimately had to be redone.

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But, once done, I was in LOVE! We added some new fixtures and it was everything I had hoped for.

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TIP!! Use some heavier duty spackle when/if filling in any lines or holes, as what we used the first time fell out! And that line was back… Really, the line didn’t look bad. But I just had it in my mind that I needed to cover it up.

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So, this time I filled it in with some heavier spackle.

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Used the sander to sand it down…

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And then re-painted, and finally, the wall was complete and is probably one of my favorite elements of the entire house!

After!

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It really brightens our room immensely and gives off a nice texture.

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And, the lights! Oh, I love the lights. I got them from HERE  for a great price, and I love the contrast they give against the white walls.

TIP! We had a hard time finding lighting that looked just right in these fixtures. Regular bulbs were either too bright or yellow, and the Edison bulbs looked too orange. We ended up investing a little more and got THESE bulbs, which you can custom create their brightness, and once we did this they were PERFECT and just what I was looking for.

Pictures with overhead lights turned on and fixtures turned off, and vice-versa, as well as some before and afters:

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I hope this has helped those of you who are considering doing this to your own home. I highly recommend it and it didn’t cost us much at all! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

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